A Barely-Legal Pinot

A most interesting orphan.  First pour clear tawny amber.  Second pour somewhat milky version of tawny amber.  Fairly severe struck-match typical old pinot nose but not garish or necessarily unpleasant and backed up by gobs of wet leather, rich oak, wet dirt and yes, deep dark FRUIT.  Thinnish entry but actually surprisingly fruity and bright.  Subtle acidity and even subtler tannin–but both quite apparent–shockingly–but the UBER-shockingly part is the rich fruit thread constant throughout this wine.  It is seriously STILL fruited.  Just unbelievable in a Pinot at 18 years old.  I’ve had 60$ TWO-THOUSAND-SIXES which were further ‘gone’.  This thing is definitely past its prime in pure lineal voluptuousness but still amazingly enjoyable and pleases on just about every level.  This is just unheard-of in New World Pinots.  Is it possible for a wine to be thin and tired and at the same time deep, dusty, and sexy?!?  13-5, my dears… and I shudder to think what this would taste like if it were 14-5.  I highly recommend searching out some RUTZ if ‘flash-in-the-pan’ Pinot Noir bores you.  ♦♦♦

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