TAZ The Goat-yard

Black and inpenetrable but not staining.  Thin clear edges.  Huge funky grassy nose of dirty baby diapers and immensely over-ripe fruit does not blow off even after decanting.  Giant and glycerin-ey with deep nutmeg, severe pencil-lead and earth notes.  AL ever-present.  Burnt rubber and bright fresh-latex.  A touch tropical, but sicky-sweet.  Blockingly dense in the early palate but fruit is definitely meager.  Turns to giant tannin and acid almost immediately with the black, thin fruit trying to catch up.  A very interesting wine.  This could have been very nice on release.  It could be in a bit of a mid-term funk.  But I do not feel it will balance into something wonderful with a few more years–there just is not the fruit present to support this argument.  I am trying really hard to like this wine, but for $36 I feel you can do better.  It might settle down, but the fruit is going to be gone–worse than it is.  Huge-wonks will be disappointed and balance-wonks will be disappointed.  It is a hi-quality wine able to hang out with the best of the Syrah’s from this area, but it falls short in several areas.  Just BLISTERING in the grainy, chewy finish and not much fruit to back it up.  14-8  and it would score higher if not for the intense funky wet-leather nose and a tad more fruit.  ◊

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