This Wine Takes Several Paragraphs to Insult You

Inky ruby all the way to the edges.  Initial revolting massively-tropical, flowery, sicky-sweet Jolly-Rancher, Gnarly Head, Chronic, Barefoot, EOS nose which sent me into the convulsions which typically accompany the early stages of hate for a bottle of wine.  I tasted it, but the nose was overwhelming and walked away for a half hour, preparing to write the unpleasant news.  Decanted.  It does blow off, but there are unfortunate residuals of said nose still in the glass after a half hour.  Fat and glycerin-ey, with sweet Coca-Cola spice lurking behind some fairly impressive oak and alcohol.  There are some gamey, warm-blood nuances, but nothing from the group of things I really look for in a Syrah North of 25$.  Taste improves on things 1000%.  See, this is a rare reversal.  Give me a awesome nose on a shitty wine any day.  Crappy noses on wines with stuffing are so much harder to appreciate in the near term but I have seen many MANY of them shed the early bouquet issues and carry themselves off into the stratosphere on their stuffing alone.  At 4 years though, this isn’t exactly ‘early nose issues’ and if it were one of their vineyard-designate bottlings, I would cut it much more slack and assume it will polish out but to see such a cloying package on an entry-level County-appellation wine makes me bet against the house and start thumbing the card-index for ‘Tourist Wine’.  Brilliantly concentrated on entry–just an explosion of fruit–albeit a tad pruney–in maximum concentrations stirred violently with numbing acid transitioning quickly to sandpaper tannin.  And that nose.  I’m sorry… it has been decanting for an hour and I really want to like this wine but it is NOT a bouquet for anybody who tucks their shirt in.  The pruney-ness has crept back down into the nose and the whole thing is now a trainwreck.  I’m sorry.  I just Can. Not. bring myself to like this wine.  Can’t you see how hard I have tried? It is unbalanced.  It stinks like a candy store.  The fruit needs some brightness and some MUD, some DIRT, some meadow-muffins, some cow-pies, some rotten hay, SOMETHING to make it interesting.  And acids and tannins jolting the scale on a wine which smells and tastes like root beer is just wrong.  I hate this wine.  And I can not wait to see what the capped residuals taste like tomorrow night.  Either I will be right–as usual, or I will eat crow–which I am always happy to do with something as sacred as wine.

24hr vac-u-vin edit:  As I suspected, this wine completely fell apart and is undrinkable.

2010 JAFFURS Syrah Santa Barbara County 14.7

http://www.jaffurswine.com

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