Bright dark ruby with pink edges. Intense dark tarry fruit with considerable vegetal nuances run the nose. Concentrated cola syrup and a little heat.
I am not sure I have ever had this wine before. I have had the basic Kenwood Sonoma County cab ($10) a multitude of times and always thought it a solid–but thin–entry-level offering. I have had the Jack London bottling ($20) numerous times–still one of awesomest screen-print labels of all time and a solild, SOLID wine–but rarely am blown away by anything it offered. I have had many of the Artist Series bottlings ($60) and always felt them wonderful in their own way… I guess? But this one–the Reserve ($30)–I am not sure I have ever had. It’ a really forgettable cab. Forgettable in the line-up, and forgettable in the glass. Just so boring.
In the mouth, thin and boring. More of the tarry fruit show themselves alongside bright acidity but that is about it. There just isn’t anything interesting in this wine. Meager and severely un-complex. Nothing which grabs you. No memorable tannin. The only thing I can possibly say good about this wine it it is reasonably flawless. I suppose a decade of age could create something interesting, but as meager as this thing is, even that seems reaching. The fruit is already rubbed the wrong way and there just is not much redeeming value. I can pinpoint the Kenwood non-wowiness from two blocks. Old-world, 1980’s Sonoma cab. A classic Claret. They have not construed and manipulated this thing into an extracted tourist bottle. I have to give them an extra point for that. But oh man it could use some fruit.
2011 KENWOOD VINEYARDS Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sonoma Co. 13.5