Low-Hanging Fruit

Impenetrable black ink with staining ruby edges.  Super-concentrated, steely nose packing a bit of alcohol and (*thinks about it*… *Smells it again*… *smells it again*…) that’s about it.  No, there’s definitely fruit, but so dark and concentrated whatever origin in varietal it had is long gone.  I’m used to PS this young being somewhat bright, with massive tannins–well… that’s the way I LIKE them–often they are too bright, and rarely are they too tannic, is a too-tannic PS even POSSIBLE?!?!!  Not in my book.  This poor thing is so flabby it is already oxidizing and whatever bright strawberry or plum fruit the grape held has been macerated out in favor of concentration and thickness and *smoothness* for the maxi-dress crowd.  I know exactly what this wine will taste like in a couple years:  The Rio Seco’s I had yesterday (08, 09, and 10 Merlot, Cab Franc, Grand Slam, Clubhouse and another blend I have fortunately forgotten the name of) just down the street are EXACTLY what wines like this turn in to.  Oxidized and fruitless.  Flabby shells of acid-less extract.  In the mouth, thin and un-inspiring–watery, actually.  A little warm curl on the edges and heat in the finish.  I’m done.  Oh! But look at the legs on that thing!!!  14-2   ◊

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