Cali Takes One On The Chenin

The absolute palest yellow straw imaginable–especially for a Chard headed into 7 years.  Basically clear with a wisp of canary.  Refuses to show much.  Minuscule rubber band, wet match and fresh cauliflower with tiny glimpses of overripe lemon complexity.  Really closed in and not a touch of oak.  Clean and vibrant slight touch of cellar floor.  I am constantly suggesting this winery to people who ask and are traveling in the area.  I consider it quite the undiscovered gem.  And this is not the only wine of theirs I like.  The lack of color matches the lack of anything overt in the mouth.  Almost shocking in its ability to coat and be vibrant and full but still leaves you grasping at its thinness–like an awesome break in a song they only play once so you have to replay the whole song to hear it in context again and of course buy the album.  It’s a foggy wet morning–just cheery enough about the new day but not going to shout about it.  So thin, yet crisp and clean and the acid comes up through the middle and swells the initial apple into sickeningly-ripe pineapple but again EVERYTHING is so subtle and delicate.  Not an explosive wine of any sorts or overwhelming or rich and ripe like we are all so accustomed to in CA, but it makes up for everything with straight finesse, polish and balance.    14-1   ♦♦

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