Merely Walking Into Morgan

Intense staining ruby.  Burnt rubber, muddy-root nose initially cloaked in a touch of closed-in funkiness.  Gobs and gobs of fruit, lovely bright fruit-forwardness, then taking a turn to the dark side of gamy, concentrated black reduced jam, cassis and acid.  A piquantness in the nose teeters between minerality and acid, with alcohol the third-wheel.  The difference between this and last night’s syrah is absolutely stunning.  Everything that particular wine was mired in this thing explodes on, and everything shallow that bottle represented, this one finesses the subtleties into distinguished prominence.  Rich, round and stunning–and I haven’t even tasted it yet.  An elegant entry, bracketed with sweet oak and dense fruit, with tannins making their presence known right off the get-go–just an afterthought at first, and a steady crescendo to considerably shy of *blistering* at finish.  It tastes as crisp, clear, and intense as it looks and smells.  No disappointments, and no surprises either–although I somewhat expected this bottle to be a little more easily-fruited and thinner of composition.  I tasted the Cotes Du Crows recently and it was easy to drink and a wonderful bargain.  At a 5-dollar PP higher, I expected this one to be similar in enjoyable simplicity.  But it is not.  This one is 10 dollars better at LEAST and the sophistication and elegance and nuance far outweigh its 20$ PP.  Just a fabulous wine.  14-4   ♦♦

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