Bruce is the Santa Cruz Swan

Med garnet with slightly bricking edges.  Heady and immense right out of the box, showing huge black cherry with a shot of alcohol.  Air brings you wilted floral, still round and full, dusty throughout, with sweet minerality sprouting seamlessly from its core.  Sawn redwood–maybe oiled, cold hot-dog, and a little polish around the edges of a wine headed dangerously into Syrah-territory.

I’ve never been the biggest fan of Santa Cruz Mountain Pinot Noir.  A couple trips to the area and numerous experiments has failed to place it anywhere near the top of my favorite appellations for Pinot.  With that said, David Bruce has ALWAYS been my absolute favorite of the region.  His many different bottlings every year are a lot of fun to taste through, typically with Sonomas, RRVs, SLHs and SMVs in addition to the SCMs.  One of those solid, old-school producers with very little flash, and all power under the hood, lots of great bottles and ALWAYS a sale going on.

In the mouth, a little tired mustiness trails in after the thinnish fruit hits.  A middle pre-occupied with showing off the trademark SCM spice and briar causes a reflection back onto the fruit, which now reflects everything in the nose.  It is a little fat but doesn’t blossom shallowly like Americans seem to be preferring of late from their PN.  It is not *bright* in a modern sense.  This thing excels in the dusty, dank corners of patience, and do not expect it to explode.  It just ambles along, inside seemingly safe parameters–unprodded, like a fat kid in Velcro shoes with a 165 IQ.  But give it a little time and plenty of air and and serious Pinot-dork will be rewarded.  Distinctly-Pinot-fruity nuances seem to be on the light end of the see-saw on this one–especially at first.  The alcohol bugs me a bit–I’m guessing 14-6–and the fruit reminds me more of a ‘Central Coast’ blend.  But everything going on alongside rings all my classic Pinot bells.

2008 DAVID BRUCE Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains 14.8

www.davidbrucewinery.com

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