Clos Jemima

2005  Medium garnet with wide yellow edges.  Completely non-staining.  Considerable sed.  Rubber hose… Unfortunately: Cooked.  2004 LEFT–2005 RIGHT
  

2004  Impenetrable pitch-black ruby all the way out to tiny thin maroon edges.  Completely staining.  Considerable sed.  Big ripe tarry fruit distillate, alcohol and intense briar hit the nose in that order.  A weedy strain of wood so completely integrated into the bouquet, it is hard to tell where the fruit leaves off and the minerality takes over.  Like smelling a black moonless night after someone has ripped a field of brush… and it’s raining.  Early: a bit of cellar-funk, overpowered by ripe fruit.  Late:  an overt petrichor lapping at a leathery beach.  A chalky brightness you HOPE translates over to the mouth penetrates the late-bouquet.  These came by way of the winemaker of a defunct winery.  Never got labelled.  05 had provenance issues the past few years and it shows.  If the 04 had comparable storage issues the past decade, it has the mettle to shrug them off.  In the mouth, a lot sweeter than I expected.  A full port-like intensely-concentrated whallop of dark fruit hits early and maintains its viscosity across the palate.  Alcohol rears up early crescendos off into the finish.  This is a BIG.  RIPE.  BRUISER.  Porty with a certain level of oxidation, rich overly-ripe cherry preserves gyrate against a sandpaper canvas of chewy tannin, shockingly bright acidity, and alcoholic heat.  The briar is left in the nose:  The mouth-feel is all jam.  This thing is SO HUGE, distilled, sweet and ripe.  But I can’t bring myself to call it pancake syrup.  It has far more going on.  The LEGS are red!  You absolutely have to CHEW this wine.  This is not my preferred style of wine.  But oh man is it yummy.  This thing HAS to be 15-2.   ♦♦

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