Greatness On The Side

Garnet with wide clear edges.  Intensely floral and sweet nose, decadent in dark ripe and tarry fruit layered with a nice touch of oak.  Pure candy, with a rusty cast iron AND well-seasoned cast iron layers.  Big, opulent and rich.  This thing HAS to be 13+ and if I didn’t know the label would probably put it closer to 14.  It is heady and round, concentrated into a user-friendly style putting it head-and-shoulders above most entry-level Pinots.  A tiny bit of early mustiness is icing on the cake.  And then it settles down into this MASSIVE wine.  In the mouth, an instant hit of acid and tannin, while maintaining a nutty viscousness confirming the rich roundness of the bouquet but manages to be light on its feet with more floral crushed-stem liveliness.  Chew-able Vit. C brings a certain bitterness to the finish I would love to re-visit in 10 years.  I am trying hard to like this wine but it is taking some convincing.  It is a big, fat, extracted package wrapped in a mouth-feel thinner than you thought was coming and finishing with ample tannin.  You can do way worse for 30 bucks.  I am feeling you can not do much better.  It hits on all levels of Pinot-snobbery and still manages to avoid most of the issues pinot-newb finds detracting from Burgundy.  All said, it is pretty much a perfect 30$ pinot.  Just not my speed.  12-5   ♦

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