Today Is Brought To You By The Letter: Justaposition

Clear brilliant garnet–and staining.  Diced pungent vegetables and oak, sunburnt tire over chopped weeds and tree-roots in deep ditches.  A flatulent ripeness supersedes everything–casting an almost vulgar sweetness across all acidic, briary, tannic fronts.  Clear calm wet cardboard seals the bretty-meal-O-matic against the wall of rich oak and dessert.  This is my favorite Amarone of the past few–and I am somewhat embarrassed because for decades I have faulted this bottle on it’s oxidized richness and concentration of sweetness, and here I am purporting THIS one my fave and it is easily the flabbiest of all recents.  The thing about this one is balance.  It struts out fruit by the pallet and washes it all in a disgustingly ripe concentration of sugar and oak, but alongside run this stream of acid and briar and tannin so brilliant.  In the mouth, decadent and disgustingly rich and round.  An AL burn surfaces immediately.  Chalkily tannic and stunningly fruited, the dark cherry, chocolate and cedar-closet goes on and on forever.  A sharp burn originating in the nose chimes in late-mid, and churns almost seamlessly into the still-brilliant tannin.  Yes, it’s a little fat.  Yes, the concentration of fruit and ripeness toys with oxidation.  Yes, the acid and AL seem almost shrill against the decadence of the entry.  But that’s what we want, right?!?!?  Balance.
♦♦
2008 CAPITEL Della CROSARA Amarone della Valpolicella Giacomo Montresor DOC Verona  15-5

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