Once Upon A Time in the West

Thin ruby with pink edges.  Big euro funk–barnyard and horse-stall–blows off rapidly into intense wet rock road and a shocking mint.  Heady floral and AL.  Not wilted flowers–fresh wet wildflowers, not even trimmed or put in vases yet.  I love the labels here.  Bonny Doon always brings the A-game to labels, but not just an Orin Swift/Russel From sorta edgy label–many layers of tongue-in-cheek subliminal messages usually going on.  Here’s the play is on *telegraph* and we’re not talking Communiqué.  An amazing wine for the PP, and a Mourvedre tour-de-force taking a huge swipe at Bandol for half the price.  In the mouth, it relishes in layers, bright and glowingly shy, then sultry and dark, tobacco and Cinnamon Toast Crunch playing off Blackberry Pop Tarts–home-made, hippy, whole wheat, unsweetened Pop Tarts.  Stemmy and briar-rific.  And through-out, the background burn of AL.  Kinda hard to tell where the impressive black tannin leaves off and the burn begins–or maybe it’s visa-versa.  I could call it peppery, but that would be painting the fence.
♦♦
2011 BONNY DOON Old Telegraph Mourvedre California  15-5
http://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com

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