A Duuley of a Zin

Medium ruby with opaque edges.  An initial blast of REALLY jammy Gummy Bear bruit breathes out quickly to a more elegant Jolly Rancher, backed by root-beer spice and earthy oak.  Tiny AL noticeable, but nothing worrisome.  A wonderful nose.  Yes, it’s fruited out of the Avon catalogue and not by the Nordstrom girls, but it’s Zinfandel… whaddaya gonna do?!?  I am so *off* Zinfandel.  I can’t even get into it anymore.  This is a nice wine and I am just putting it through its paces with very little enthusiasm.  For YEARS I wonked Zin.  Bought cases of it.  Traveled at time exclusively to Zin Country.  Touted it to everyone who would listen.  And then… about 1998… something started happening.  Slow at first–barely noticeable.  But by mid-2000 the variety had changed.  Some argue it merely found its own identity and moved out of the shadow of Cab which had suppressed true Zin character for decades.  I say it was the knee-jerk red: the first and easiest variety to whore out to the purse-dog crowd and their d-bag hangers-on–eager for a nuclear blend of warm fuzzy fruit and blistering alcohols.  I stopped drinking Zinfandel.  Stopped buying it completely.  Today I own *maybe* 1 or 2 bottles n my entire cellar.  But they seem to be coming back.  If I had a steady diet of Zinfandels like THIS, I could slowly be wooed back into the Primitivo Phold.  In the mouth, fruit grows tremendously from onset into a sweet sweet bomb shocked to life by pepper and burn.  Fairly one-dimensional, and most of anything interesting is perpetrated by the acid and the AL–not the fruit.  Basically no tannin.

2012 STEPHEN ROSS Zinfandel Dust Vineyard Paso Robles  14-4
http://www.stephenrosswine.com

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