A 13.0 in 1978?!?!?!?

Beautiful golden garnet seriously amber in wide edges.  Round fruit wonderful nose heady with match-head and nutty smoked caramel and dark cherry.  Not a breath of oxidation or flaccid cooked over-done-ness.  Crisp and satisfying, showing solid pure over-ripe orange, incredible dusty pure intense minerality, stewed apricot and sweet barnyard over cedar-box spice.

This came on questionable provenance and was opened on a fluke–totally expecting the worst.  I would never take this to a resty without at least one back-up and quite honestly had little hope.  The voiced expectations were for burnt, nutty dullness in the nose and a vapid gone-ness in the mouth.  It was NOT TO BE!  A brilliant, beautiful wine through-and-through showing verve and aplomb throughout the bouquet and translating even better on the palate.  Cork offered no obstacles–although no step was spared in removing it gently and painstakingly.  Saturated to within 1/4 inch of top, capsule completely rotted and fused to bottle, but dry on top.  Head-space low and slight milky sed.  In the mouth, clean and solid, fruit completely intact and morbidly concentrated.

Thinnish but not meager, bright Granny-Smith and sharply acidic raspberry and plum translates straight through to a building of concentration in the middle–still chewingly concentrated and very much alive.  Bright acid is the name of this game and shockingly ample tannins rise up to orchestrate the pure, clean finish, leaving their burn far into the exit many minutes later.  The mouth-feel on this wine is nothing short of stunning.

I can not repeat myself enough how much life and beauty and pure concentrated fruit comes across the palate.  2 hours in–despite prognosticating a steady downfall and expecting a complete mess within hours–this little thing is still drinking clean and focused.  I know I open older Pinots from CA and OR and qualify my remarks with a *must love older wines* caveat, but here no such preface is required.  It IS. Just. Plain. Beautiful. Through-and-through.

1978 TOLLOT-BEAUT & FILS Pinot Noir Aloxe-Corton ACC Burgundy France 13.0

www.bourgogne-wines.com

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