Dark ruby, staining and opaque with brilliant ruby edges. Raw meat and incredible spicy dark cherry fruit, headily concentrated, beautiful cassis and oak, round and masculine while maintaining an ethereal floral and mud. Edgy mineral balances disgustingly rich fruit with a slight patina. So nuanced and beautiful, it begs you to drink it. As opposed to another SY/PS blend I tasted this afternoon, which DEFIED you to drink it, smelling oh-too-rich and cloying and when you DID taste it, all the Welch’s and root-beer and pancake-syrup gods smiled down and told you you were a fucking idiot. Of course, I speak of this darling:
A wine I have tasted twice now and do not recommend. There just is not anything interesting involved, no matter how blingy and allegedly edgy this producer is: It is plain old boring over-exracted sweet bullshit.
The Black Zeppelin, however, remains one of my favorite wines from this producer. This is not to say I love all of his wines. But this one manages to capture varietal typicities and razor-nuances while still playing hard into this producer’s deck, which is heavily-extracted, hi-AL fruit-bombs. In the mouth, an instant dryness and briar (as opposed to the ABSTRACT’s instant syrupy sweetness and unintelligible mash of cheap milk-chocolate and Mega-Purple-infused oak-nectar), more stunning fruit, and a dry itching leather worn hard under oil-cloth tarps on a muddy road. Where the Orin Swift obfuscated you with sugar, this pulls the PS stops all out, tannin-intense and shrill, acid on 11, and simple fruit lingering long into the finish. A little heat seals the deal, but nothing like the Abstract’s 15-7. This is a wine I am proud to endorse and happy I have a few more for enjoyment for several more years.
2009 RED ZEPPELIN Black Zeppelin Central Coast SY/PS 14.5