The Wine With The Golden Gun

Whisper-pale canary–just the barest wisp of color.  Massive peach melon buttery banana bright but round, barely cloaking the ripe grapefruit skin minerality and fresh windrows of Timothy and vetch.  Had this wine now on three occasions and I never cease to be amazed at all the points it hits on.  I know I rarely comment on pretty labels, but this thing wins hard in that category, with the salmon and brick octopus brilliant through the almost-clear liquid on the reverse of the rear label–back-dropping the monochromatic front.  In a handsomely shouldered bottle and Stelvin, it is a gorgeous package.  Which, TYPICALLY, is a death-knell for the actual contents.  Not in this case.  Further gossip on this one indicates the Octopussy name is going away at the behest of distributors, citing uncontrollable blushing and embarrassment from the christian republican contingent.  And… we’re all out to sell wine, right?  In the mouth, more green melon, Honeydew–or Crenshaw–nothing fantabulously cloying like cantaloupe  but thin and borne on acidity never green, never awkward.  Lilikoi and star-jasmine and oh is that a little oak?!?  Brilliant and crisp all the way through but packing a whallop and a nice peppery ‘tannin’ finish lingers and lingers.  An outstanding white blend wine trying to be whimsical (“Bottled by Merman & Sea Bitch”) but firing HARD on all cylinders.
♦♦
2014 SEA MONSTER Octopussy Central Coast  13-6
http://www.seamonsterwines.com
Available at GRAPE ENCOUNTERS EMPOURIUM and they ship.

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