Here Kita Kita Kita

Med-dark ruby with wide purple edges.  Incredible horse-stall funk, soiled hay and sweaty leather come at you in quite surprising quantities for a SYV Syrah.  Unbelievably Old-World–and welcome so.

In a world of New-World Rhone-producers each pontificating how Rhone-like their offerings are, this young thing just hits it perfectly without assumption or grandiose while maintaining a distinctly New-World packaging and presentation.  It seriously reeks of Hermitage or upper-end St. Joseph to me.  Beautiful not-so-sweet-sweetness toying miraculously with wet muddy earthen nuances–briar and funk.

This is a relatively new label and I do not usually rush out to–or get excited with–new labels but I got begged into attending an open house for a winery NEXT DOOR (which turned out to be crap) a few months ago and I wandered down the sidewalk into Kita’s pop-up tasting.  The moment I smelled the Syrah, I knew it was something special I wanted on Soif.

First of all, it’s Camp 4, but most importantly is the rhubarb-pie/barnyard juxtaposition this thing plonks down alongside lush, ripe fruit.  But lush and ripe in the obvious absence of severe alcohol–another crime of SYV Syrahs.  I’m thinking down around 14-2 even though it barely shows THAT.  Distinctly vegetal for the first hour, it gradually turns smokier and tarrier and peppery.

In the mouth, instantly rich and ripe–we’re back to more classic SYV profiles here–turning heavy toward licorice and wet stone–the area the only significant appearance of acid seems to originate from.  Bitter and black, the fruit turns chewy where pepper becomes mild tannin.  This is a lovely wine, and something I would highly recommend seeking out.  My fondness for SYV Syrahs notwithstanding, the effortless Old World shadows of this bottle put it way up on the scale.

2013 KITÁ Syrah Santa Ynez Valley Camp 4   13.5

http://www.kitawines.com

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