Dammit, Janasse!

img_20160916_180832Clear and light out to thin transparent edges. Heady Tang citrus and an olive oil slick drip out from Kalamata tapenade with roasted pimentos. Thick rusted steel steers the disgusting mineral reekage down past the sullen lily as far as it can go before lacy wet fern brings about a sort of spearmint earthiness.

This light and lovely powerhouse comes through from @lastbottlewines to fly in the face of MOST of what I heard and read today concerning #grenacheday. A light and lovely powerhouse? How can that be possible, Soif? you can’t have both. Hell yes you can and it’s the way wines were made for generations before certain ‘Ripests’ steam-rolled the sugar-mainlining McDonald’s generation into thinking wines you can stand a fork up in are the only true goal of powerful wines. That’s like saying a woman in a house-dress isn’t sexy.

THIS is the way wine should be made. Yes, I regularly enjoy big fat thick ripe concentrated offerings because, well, that’s what’s out there and I have to get around, but when one of these things rolls across my desk, I sit up straight. So effortless. So nuanced. So doubling-down on a style we enjoyed in the 80’s and 90’s before acid and vegetal became bad words and being able to SEE through your Grenache was considered lame.

In the mouth, the fruit never gets in the way of the stream of acid and the acid never gets in the way of the fruit, they just play joyfully off each other–bitter, dull, round, sharp, sweet–SO many directions it takes your tongue before more olive wraps up this subtle beast with an envelope of citrus, lead and steel encapsulating the tannins. Another absolute BABY you are going to want to keep an eye out for and when you find it, try desperately to keep your hands off it for a decade.

2013 DOMAINE de LA JANASSE Chateauneuf du Pape ‘Chaupin’ 14.0
www.lajanasse.com
www.lastbottlewines.com

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