Don’t Harsh My Gamay, Bro

img_20160922_193958Light radiant ruby with thin pink edges and considerable sediment. Not bricking in the slightest bit. Eucalyptus and carrot cake churn out of the glass, thick with the pedigree of a used bookstore and plump with wet leather and licorice.
I took this thing to an industry party a few weeks back on a whim expecting a weird–probably oxidized–thin effort and it was absolutely WOTN with everybody raving about it and coming back to revisit the label. Valdiguié?  Really?  At nearly ten years old and a variety not typically thought of as dense or long-aging, this thing packs the surprises. This is a current release at the winery–not something from my cellar–they just like to put a little bottle-age on things.  I can’t disagree.  If you’re into Gamay and low-alcohol ‘natural wines’ and vibrant, interesting wines with acidity, this thing is for you. The extra age is merely a bonus.  Was so impressed I decided to spend a little one-on-one time with another bottle at home.
In the mouth, chocolate liqueur and dried cranberries punctuate the impossible-to-ignore nose giving an aged elegance to its still-bright fruit. This thing is so complex, deep and brooding with shrill acidity piercing the chocolate, burnt rubber and cassis in an elegant fashion not unlike aged Bordeaux. So heady in the bouquet, and so pretty and clean on the palate. Probably something you don’t want to keep around for another ten years, but oh man right NOW is it a brilliant wine and I am going to find myself some more of this.
2007 MILANO FAMILY WINERY Valdiguié Mendocino County 12.9
http://www.milanowinery.com

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