Against The Franc

Clear medium garnet with minuscule amber edges. Old-world variables and polish combined with a Beaujolais fruitiness are the first things to greet the nose, backed up with grassy minerality and a ripe-plum gravel petrichor with deep brooding caramel all under the auspices of a sliced onion and fat slathers of cake-frosting.
Contraindicative? I don’t think so. Cab Franc is a wine boundlessly unfenced with nuances often unfit for general patterns of descriptors and that is what makes it compelling and fascinating. This thing comes off WAY more Loire than the bottle-shape directs. And tasting through a complete horizontal of this producer’s wines in the past month or so has seen them all deeply bedded in Bordeaux. Until now. This bottle is FAR more Loire than the classic CF BDX offerings and really would *psychologically* fit better if packaged in a soft-shouldered bottle. Or maybe it is just a style of BDX CF which rarely hits our shores? This stuff is velvety-rich on tannins and cold-climate-obvious in fruit and concentration.  The richness of finish is the only thing that tells me this is Bordeaux-inspired.

In the mouth, thin clear bright acidic stretches of terroir are the first to greet. Dark bitter leftovers from the bouquet influence the fruit but overall the package turns light and lovely, generously but delicately fruited with gobs of mouth-shredding brier and tannin filling a green void screaming for YEARS of age to fully blossom. It’s mind-mindbogglingly good Cab Franc.

I can not recommend enough calling this winery up and ordering a full horizontal of their 2013’s. I know it is a label most are not familiar with, but ridiculously good values and astonishingly good wines.

2013 WORLD’S END Cabernet Franc Reserve ‘Against The Wind’ Napa Valley 14.5

www.maltus.com

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