Baby Baby Barolo

Clear thin garnet with wide amber edges.  A tiny bottle funk breathes out fast, screaming: Euro-village before turning to full-on horse-stall and sharp succulent tarred nutmeg with a slight burn of alcohol.  Dirty baby diaper and peat  overwhelm the Vegemite and roasted-halibut nose, only allowing ripe cherry to linger in the wings for those who really look for it.  It’s there–thrust me–but all the goings-on of an old-school Italian do somewhat get in the way to the casual observer but in a way the purist will savor.  Decanted.

In the mouth, a dagger of acid wracks and twists the Curaçao plush-toy of fruit which is never ripe enough or rich enough to do a full-on Barolo decadence but instead an intriguing thinnish but somehow still opulent structure quite refreshing.  Glowingly shrill and beautiful and never cloying or flabby, it knocks it outa the park in classic food-wine relevance and never heads the syrupy Barolo direction.  Harshly tannic in a way you will hope settles down in a couple years but still user-friendly, this one is a clear winner for the price-point.

2011 AGRICOLA CAGLIERO Ravera Barolo DOCG Italy 14.0

www.cagliero.com

http://www.lastbottlewines.com

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