All On Black


Great staining garnet. Absolutely sediment CAKED from fill-level down.  Initial gym sock and cardboard turn cream-cheese frosting and maraschino with a tiny bit of air, finally settling down to sweet eucalyptus stew, French onion soup and Christmas canes. Long and mellow, with a slight burn, this is a joy to sniff.

I have no idea where I bought this, but seeing I have three or four left, it must have impressed me a decade ago and now fairly seriously need to be drunk.  They are not going to get any better.  It’s lovely, yes.  But slight past-prime and fading.  And so many people these days quite dislike older wines showing such polish. I, however, relish in these wines. Dank dirty gritty life and depth and richness–even in the face of fading fruit or the cloyingness of it there-in.

In the mouth, opulent old fruit–not *gone* but thick and, honestly: delicious.  Rich booty curves parallel with impossibly dark concentration give meaning to keeping–even bargain–Napa Valley wines around for the long-run.  Chalky and teeth-wipingly mineralific, the structure on this has definitely out-lived the fresh fruit, but not the ripe fruit.  A long sighing finish, rife with tannin, tells me to drink the rest of these NOW or wait another ten.  That’s how these wines run.  One of two things are going to happen.

2002 BLACKFORD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 14.5

david@blackfordwines.com

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One thought on “All On Black

  1. I bought several of these at Gross Out about a year or two ago and really liked them. I think I have one left and had one about two months ago. I agree, it probably is best consumed now. There were a couple vintages available at the time, depending on which Grocery Outlet you went to.

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