Empty Dreams

Dense ruby with bright purple edges. One of the tightest, most closed-in wines I have had in recent memory. Grasping at a nose on this thing is like pulling teeth. It releases miniscule bits of pie-cherry, raw meat and green oak and that is about it.

Entirely too young to enjoy completely, it is fun to observe more as a ‘barrel sample’ than a wine truly intended to drink and enjoy.  There is a certain amount of depth to it, but only with gobs of air and ALL is cloaked tightly behind a curtain of acid and tannin in the mouth, and… well… practically nothin in the bouquet.

Taste brings a searing copper-penny acridness, black-tea and peach-pit, giving up nothing even remotely voluptuous or elegant. Layers do not exist. Green fruit of almost Beaujolais-definition dance around here and there, playing an intense cat-and-mouse game with your tongue as you search for any typical Syrah rewards. This thing needs at least another year in bottle before anything most would consider *enjoyable* will be visible. At this juncture it is thin, fruitless and quite difficult to grasp. Alcohol is nigh 14-oh which also could spell a problem for this wine ever progressing into anything beautiful. On one hand, the ripeness is there–at least in the numbers–but one cannot but help wonder if the fruit which *possibly* will emerge from behind the structure will be short-lived and shallow.  The other thing I would love to have explained is how we went from 12.7 to 13.9 in one vintage. It would be fun to have a case of these to watch over a decade, as I love this appellation AND producer, but it would be a gamble. This wine is hollow.

2012 MEYER FAMILY CELLARS Syrah Yorkville Highlands Mendocino Co 13.9

www.mfcellars.com

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