Bright medium ruby, semi-staining with barely garnet edges. Big nutty round nose–crusty baguette underarm, wool scarf flapping on a damp grey street, steam-grates and diesel exhaust mingling past another bakery where lush fruit-filled tarts line the cases and rich glaze inundates the sidewalk.
This IGT is Sangiovese and Teroldego and clearly built for the long-term. As effusive as the nose is, a thread of minerality throughout tells you the mouthfeel might just be a bit more unforgiving–and you would be right. While the bouquet is lush, candied and outgoing, the shy palate must live under its shadow for a few more years. Don’t forget: this is a 2014 with 12 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle. Both numbers–even at this young age–spell a perfect balance (for my palate) of cellar nuance and bright, fresh. On paper, this blend works great, and in the glass, it works even better.
In the mouth, tight ,tight fruit in an iron fist of juniper berry and black walnut push tannin and acid to the forefront. Generous decanting and considerable air lighten this balance considerably, allowing the plush fruit obvious in the nose to burst through. Ripe berry slides past on a glacier of structure, together to the end, never harsh, but the tannin clearly in control of this bottle. Fun to drink now, the patient consumer will see great rewards as it settles down in a couple years and should be positively STUNNING in a decade.
2014 POGGIO LA NOCE Gigetto Red Wine Sangiovese/Teroldego IGT Toscana Italy 13.5