The Perfect Sangiovese

IMG_20170316_202740_972Bright dark ruby, staining with no edge.  This is, I believe, THE most perfumed wine I have ever smelled in my life.  Hyperbole aside, it is BRAIN-NUMBING and NOSTRIL ORGASMIC the amount of floral and nectar contained in an early breathe of this thing.  Piles of Natal Plum and Gardenia clog the senses, Lilies waving along a wall of Jasmine.  An oaky beauty also shines, polishing the perfect tidbit of honey Euro funk and cellar you HAVE to have in an IGT like this.  But it’s a BABY.  The floral blows off soon and leaves grainy fruit and petrichor, not slutty–thin to a razor point.

Don’t let these labels confuse you.  I’ve had a hard enough time keeping them straight in the cellar.  There’s GIGINO and GIGETTA and GIGIO, all very monochromatic and similar.  I would hate to be a shop-keep in a wineshop.  Seriously, they can’t even keep the BV ‘Napa Valley’ out of the ‘Rutherford’ and the CSJ ‘California’ out of the ‘Sonoma’.  I had a shop owner in Napa tell me once they discontinued Nickel & Nickel because the plethora of labels they produce are too repetitious.  These three are VARY hard to keep straight.  I reviewed the GIGETTO here.  Still, the labels are well-done, and the trio look great together.

In the mouth, almost-100% Sangiovese typicity strikes hard.  Well fruited, but nothing even approaching ‘over-ripe’ and the dagger of acidity pokes and twists its way in to every crevasse.  Spicy and sharp, the absolute infantism of this wine strikes again hard.  Such an unbelievable food-wine, it just BEGS for rich spicy sauces, buttery reductions and aged meat.  Bright and lively, while still maintaining an elegance and poise telling you it means business.  A bitter wash of tannin out the tarry back door makes you want to cram your nose into it again.  Fun to drink now and polishing well for at LEAST a decade.  Good luck keeping your hands off it that long.

2013 POGGIO la NOCE Gigio Toscana IGT 90/10 Sang/Colorino Italy 14.0

www.poggiolanoce.com

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