D’Fonzy


Oak.  That’s it.  Oak.  Big, smoky smoldering oak.  I have never smelled so much oak in a wine.  Green leafy stagnant crisper-drawer and a shot of caramel over old sweaty guy and baby powder.  Softened varnish on a wood bar, worn from too many wipes with mildew-ey dish-cloth.  There’s acid visible in the nose–and alcohol–and KMBS–and oak.  Promises of a rich expanse of gripping acid and rich fruit are fine, but I have to get it past my nose first.  And this wine is border-line repulsive to smell.

At the expense of cross-branding, I think it is important to point out here what *style* of wine you are getting into.  Krankl. Le Cuvier. Carmody-McKnight. C.O.R.E.  Do I need to go on?  This wine is not oxidized–not even close.  Bright and full, but ridiculously fat, round and reeking of oak like a frat-boy sweats Jameson.  Krankl’s wines are some of the most-sought-after in the world.  Everywhere I go I run into surprise Le Cuvier fans.  CORE can be found on several local store shelves–sightings which always bring an aghast chuckle from me.  So this wine is not without marketing company.  To each their own.  Tasted over a three-day period at a multitude of temperatures from 49°F to 62°F, this wine REFUSES to oxidize.

In the mouth–OH DEAR DOG DO I HAVE TO TASTE IT?!?!–ghastly bitter marmalade around quite pretty fruit, honestly.  How they preserved the fruit after the barrel programme this poor wine was CLEARLY subjected to is beyond me.  Chubby and round, but fairly glistening with playful acid. A bright melon bow on a pile of brown bananas.  A plasticine tincture of chewy bitter tannin round out the F-O-R-E-V-E-R finish.

2013 D’ALFONSO-CURRAN Chardonnay White Hills Vineyard Santa Barbara Co. 13.6

http://www.d-cwines.com/

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