Fairly dense ruby–no garnet at all–bright purple ruby out to wide pink edges. Smooth buttery calm rises out of it, vanilla cake frosting and Grape Nehi. Rich and nose-filling, in a big, ripe nutty way with very little of the twerky nuances which trademark Pinot Noir.
This is a rather pedestrian wine. For decades I have gone back and forth between Lazy Creek and their neighbor Navarro, debating their Pinot styles. Anderson Valley is so interesting that way. Navarro always managed to capture a raw, green bitter edge and Lazy Creek always made *prettier* wines. More of a–while we’re on the subject of Anderson Valley, I’m sure everybody’s friends and won’t mind a little cross-branding–Goldeneye style, fruitier and sweeter, more robust in caramel and root-beer, but at half the price. Lazy Creeks Pinots always seem richer and more approachable, where in some years the Navarro can turn away all but the most devoted Burg-fan. It doesn’t look like much has changed with the purchase by Ferrari-Carano. If anything, the wine has become more refined, more velvet and padding. User-friendly nectar.
In the mouth, we’re back to the edginess of Anderson Valley. A bit. Not too much. But definitely a visit back to Burgundy a bit. Initial thin-ness tells you this is indeed real Pinot and not Belle Glos. Delicate plum mingles around dancing acid, titillating everything it touches. An agreeable middle-section, packed with candied oak and sweet jam, doesn’t go off-the-rails with concentration–it stays demurely in its place, but unavoidable in the room. Green tinges of that reason we ALL drink Anderson Valley come twisting in mid-palate, gorgeous brier, back-hoe diggings and green sapling bark, see-sawing with sweet tannins for definition of finish. No one wins. Except the person holding the glass.
This is a smart wine, there’s no doubt about it.
2015 LAZY CREEK VINEYARDS Pinot Noir Estate Anderson Valley 14.4