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Ruddy garnet, medium density way out to wide amber edges.  Cacoa nib and buttercream, dull spicy fruit bogged down with banana peel and steam-bath, everything working against an obese impression in the nose, nothing bright or lively.

The blonde cellar-mates of this wine are positively brilliant.  Here however, we have something running much quicker toward the d’Alfonso portion of the team: muddy and flatulent, mired in flabby bullshit which barely hides the alcohol.  If you don’t think too hard about this wine, you can really enjoy it.  But I just described 90% of Paso Robles.

In the mouth, it fares far better, although ignoring the alcohol burn becomes an exercise.  Look away for a moment and you can discover a wine quite fresh and lively, bursting with fruit and pendantic acid, oak on point, perfect deep finish and a robust swaddling of each station in alcohol and glycerine. This is a monster, a monster bathed in acid, a monster going on 5 YO and the patina of something so obese is obvious… If that describes a wine you like, knock yourself out.

2012 CURRAN Tempranillo Santa Barbara County 15.4

www.d-cwines.com

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