This is a really pretty Syrah. That’s the first thing you think when you see it. Nice medium rosy glow, wide pink edges, non-staining, un-unctuous and beautiful. It smells great too. Nice green vegetal coated in rich honey, carmelized onions and chevre, bright and sweet-smelling while still rich and sweet-smelling. The cherry-dollop perches atop a cru beaujolais sort-of sharp crisp minerality and earth.
This has Sonoma Coast written all over it. THE most Pinot-smelling Syrah I have had in some time. And don’t get me wrong: I love rich, concentrated Syrah–up to a point of course–but there is nothing like a Syrah made delicately, greener, showing alignments with Pinot Noir in style and nuance.
In the mouth, lighter still. Oh wow what an angel’s breath of a wine. Light to a fault, dried-spit savory, and the prettiest–there’s that word again–fruit. This wine is SO refreshing, latex and cola still flowing off the nose as you wrap your lips around it again and again. Jolly Rancher pie-cherry flashes against tannins so complex, starting out a mere bitter afterthought and shape-shifting–first metallic, then green bark, then full-on non-chewable Vit-C–all the while a sweet fruit crescendo accompanies.
What a ridiculously good wine. I get a lot of Syrahs in the mail. And I like a lot of styles of Syrah. But this thing right here? This. This is one of the finest interpretations of the variety I have ever had. This is not Cornas, this is not CdP. This is not Lucia or Dehlinger. This is not Qupé or Pax Mahle or Cigare Volante. This is not Yorkville Highlands, this is not Slidehill, this is not Tablas or Colson Canyon. And I love ALL of those things–don’t get me wrong. But this. This thing right here? This is absolutely fucking brilliant shit.
2014 WHITCRAFT Syrah ‘Matts Vineyard’ Los Olivos District Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara Co. 13.9