A Stinking Mound


Dark garnet, bricking all over the glass.  A Barbiemobile burnout of lecithin, lanolin, nutritional yeast greets the nose.  Muddy and oxidized, smelling of multivitamin–the big fat brown ones with no fruity coating.  Wait.  That’s also this wine.  Late-breathing gives you flyswatter-gunge roiled in fine sawdust.

I hope this is a bad bottle.  It doesn’t strike me as corked, there’s bright marachino and acidic notes lurking here and there, but otherwise it is ghastly dretch.  Another bargain BDX… thinking I paid 30-ish for it.  30 dollars I wish I had back.  But hey:  At least *Bad Bargain Bordeaux* is not a lonely club.  I wish I had a dollar for every cheap BDX that has polished my garbage disposal.

And in the mouth, there is a bit of fruit.  Nice clean entry, good Bordeaux rigidity and abusive minerality.  Once the initial structure settles down, a nice round ripe fruit gains ground momentarily before stalwart–but one-dimensional–tannin takes over.

But still… you have to smell it first.  That’s a deal-killer.

2011 CHATEAU BERNATEAU “Tertre de Lisse” St. Emilion Bordeaux France 14.0

www.chateaubernateau.com

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