Completely transparent garnet, headed into brown HARD. Crazy match-head and rust wound generously around sweet apple-core and new carpet. The nose arches high over cedar and cardboard piquantness, landing in near-candied, smokey, Amontillado territory. Unlike old Champagne or too-gone pinots in general, the nutty edges complement the fruit, creating bouquet beauty I am–frankly–quite astonished of.
I wasn’t expecting much of this wine. It is barely 30$ soaking wet and headed into 10 years. Despite the near-sultan-status of this winemaker, the last one I had really probably 4 years ago didn’t give me much hope for this one. This is my last and I am glad. It is not *gone* but teetering close to a downhill slide in enjoyment. It is REALLY good. I would say drinking at 9/10 with peak being a year or two past at BEST. I see these lying around wine-shops quite frequently here on the central coast and would warn HEAVILY of provenance before purchase. This thing is dangling so close to the precipice, ANY storage issues will be magnified.
I *think* it was the last year Lane Tanner made Pinot under her own label. She is, of course, now back in the saddle with Will Henry making Lumen, which is again a light, simple, reasonable Pinot designed for drinking and enjoyment with food and will never satisfy the bling-crowd who demand $130 pinots you can stand a fork up in.
In the mouth, pretty floral muddled into spicy 7-Up and Buddha’s hand. Thin, razored-edge finish of more zingy citrus and dirty fruit. The bright plum and acid just sings and sings on this one, never taking a breath from first smell to lingering taste, and definitely is the driving force in keeping this thing alive.
2009 LANE TANNER Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Santa Barbara Co. 13.8