Not Hedging A Bit

Home late, went to the cellar deciding to pick something ‘bullshit’ for this late hour I didn’t have to think too hard about. Two or three pulls later and I found a stash of these Hedges: THE most spectacular label-designers in the business period end of conversation. And I’m not much of a label-guy. I only know when they are really BAD–and I know when they are REALLY good. Hedges produces the latter for ALL their wines. Can you tell I’m a classisist?!? I suppose I should start drinking these seeing that they’re coming up on a decade and these things are 15 20 bucks soaking wet so clearly not designed to last that long.

Beautiful color, bricking a bit… big vegetal ripe electrical switch cherry fruit gushes out at the nose accompanied by a cream cheese frosting funk and banana peel. Ridiculously brilliant in the mouth, firm round and focused and still ratcheting tannic in a perfect step with the huge fruit.

Typically when Syrah is crammed into an otherwise classic blend for curb appeal I’m the first person to shout at its obviousness, but in this case everything works really well. And I must say: even in a very *California* way… it doesn’t have any of your typical Washington contrived bullshit going on. It’s like a perfect South France meets Napa floral tarry headiness and a bit of fire with rich ripe fruit.

I took a lot of criticism for liking these wines when they were young but I feel pretty fucking justified right about now. They had a lot of rough edges but I saw the future. When I say a cheap wine is good you need to listen.

2009 HEDGES “C.M.S.” Cab/ME/SY 39/45/16 Columbia Valley Washington 13.5

www.hedgesfamilyestate.com

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