A Funny Thing Happened


Dark garnet, so mercurochrome dark, so dark it is hard to call it bricking, but the orange tinge is setting in.  Barely penetrable and staining.  Awkward Jelly-Belly nose, burnt and candied at the same time, muddy roiling banana and tar over brownies run over on hot asphalt.  Fat and flabby, showing only dull spice backed up by easily one of the most boring bouquets I’ve smelled on a cab this year.  Root beer and milk.  Remember that?  From summer camp?  Grape Crush and milk was a Purple Cow but what was root beer and milk called?

Anyone who reads me regularly knows the extent to which I wonk Hedges.  I love this winery long time.  Best labels in the business, too.  I have gone on record touting this particular bottle as one of the best values in New World BDX blends.  I paid 24.99 for these in 2009 or 2010 and they have been in the sanctity of my cellar ever since.  So provenance is most likely NOT an issue.  Obviously,  I am going to have to check my Hedges loyalty.  They might be off my Christmas-card list for this clunker.  I mean–it’s ten years old.  Come on.  There’s no logical reason for this thing tasting like a spare tire.  Unless it is just Washington…. showing what Washington is capable of.  Or not.

In the mouth, thick voluminous mouthfeel, but one dominated by whatever is left over in the wine after all the fruit faded.  Bitter Vit. C mingles with a tiny bit of lush fruit still lingering mid-palate.  It is a totally drinkable wine–it helps not to smell it, but totally drinkable.  Unfortunately, I can not turn off the *smelling* part.  It’s so built-in.  Harsh tannins, off-kilter with anything else in this wine dwindle off into the lengthy finish.  If I really squint hard, it’s actually quite pleasant in the mouth.  But you shouldn’t have to.

Hedges:  You’re on watch.

2007\ HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE Red Mountain ME/Cab/SY/CF 56/30/8/6 Washington State 13.6

www.hedgesfamilyestate.com

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