What can you say about a rosé? People want it treated like a normal wine review, they want to throw this descriptor and that descriptor and fruit specifics and list nuances and fit a spice profile on the poor stuff and honestly I have a difficult time doing it–not because I have a shortage of words or imagination, but because everything is so subtle and for me it’s either a good rosé or a bad rosé, there’s not too much gray area. I either like it or I don’t and I hate deconstructing them into all kinds of finite pigeon-holes. I think you’re just supposed to enjoy it or in some cases not enjoy it and when I taste a good rosé I say it’s great. You should instantly know. Of course, it helps to know what to look for in rosé, and not just sweet pink zinfandel delirium.
This is a fabulous rosé an almost flawless full-bodied rosé. On the pink side of perfect onion-skin, a Cotes de Provence basically defying criticism. A nose and mouth feel of complexity that befuddles description, unctuous of body while still feeling delicately touched by ethereal. A wash and a swallow defusingly refreshing while academically punctual. Rosy and round, while maintaining a playful bite. And of course it is 100% Grenache. Like real rosé.
2016 DOMAINE DE MALPIERS Rosé ‘Preferences’ Cotes de Provence France 13.5