Buttery browned butter with a green bitter streak visible in the nose not performing well with the combination of ripeness, age, and air. It has moved on into used examination glove territory, leaving the initial reflexive dark cherry fruit by the wayside. Moldy fruit funk infests late breathing, and a swirl does not refresh the melted Tupperware and wet paper with the original cheery–but concentrated–dessert. It has vanished and not even a fresh pour provides the Cialis-fix this girl was hoping for.
In the mouth, we’re back to sumptuous dripping cherry, ripe and gold-plated. SOOO much better than it smells! Dark-toasted oak, cinnamon and clove all vie for last-course domination but it’s the cheese that wins, of course. Dry crunchy cheese, bitter and rich, innoculated with the detritus of cavern walls.
2003 JEFF COHN CELLARS Syrah Fess Parker Vineyard Santa Barbara Co. 14.8