Shape-Shifter

​Screeching high burnt note ridiculously squashed-bug, green barnyard, sour fruit syrup. Sour density, it’s just straight up sour smelling with a concentration of wood bark. 

In the mouth, chalky dirty with a tannin section striking early and hot fading to flabby green concentration. 

This is a most interesting Pinot Noir. To call it Burgundian would be a misnomer in several areas but not all and to call it classic Santa Maria Valley would be a misnomer in several areas but not all. The thing you have to keep in mind with this–it’s impossible to ignore even though I generally don’t compute price into my reviews–this thing is a $30 bottle of wine, and made by Mr. Clos Pepe. 

Thin and brownish garnet opening to more and more barnyard every minute, that initial sour turning to rich pickling spices but definitely bringing along a bit of Raisin. The tannins also sharpen and brighten with air and stop calving off flabbiness but maintain perfect focus in the pointed lead-foot finish. 

A most interesting Pinot Noir. They ALL are–as all good ones should be and if you’re drinking cookie cutter Pinot Noir that has a homogeneous–probably over-stuffed–profile that matches what you like I promise you you’re not drinking real Pinot and if my reviews of Pinot make me sound like I hate this wine and seem disgusting to you, you also are not drinking real Pinot.

2011 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Santa Barbara Co. 13.7

www.jwilkes.com

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