Ballwhip

Straight pale garnet right out to browning edges.  Off-putting juniper and eucalyptus burst out of the glass but settle down quickly to a dull pine-rosin and soggy lettuce.  This sharp edge never quite goes away, even though in late breathing, the third-world-water piquantness somewhat serves a purpose in propping up the otherwise horse-drawn tendencies.

Warming, full fruit–candied and reduced–fills the mouth, immediately joined by a steely cold green astringency and heat.  The freshness of the fruit thins drastically in the face of the shrill mid-palate, but the sweet woodsy black concentration continues on through the chunk of tannin.  The bouquet and taste join together in a friendly handshake of barnyard across the bitter pond.

2011 BAILIWICK Pinot Noir Londer Vineyard Anderson Valley Mendocino Co. 14.5

www.bailiwickwines.com

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