En Masse


Clear light garnet, transparent to a fault, heavy amber rising up from core to edge. Huge rubber band and smokey BBQ upon layers of wet wood and barnyard loveliness.

You never know what to expect from a 40-dollar  no-name 1er cru, and this one rewards in all kinds of layers. At once simple, and at the same time mercifully complex, it brings the match-head and flint all to the forefront while pruney fruit lingers in a wash of light, watery brilliance quite lovely with all kinds of food and even by itself.

In the mouth, garbage-disposal fruit, dirty and lovely, with a harsh acidity reaming through the center splaying all the dirt and pine-pitch aside for a shot at a vague focus. Dull and flatulent, the brightness hinges only on acidity and vitamin C structure, making the fruit obsequent of what you might have envisioned. It’s still there, only vague and burnt.

Not a horrible wine, by any means, and quite rewarding for the price-point, but nothing magical. Something quite serviceable with food and fading into hardcore structure which reads more of harsh acidic finish than loveliness.

2014 DOMAINE MASSE Pinot Noir ‘Champ Lalot’ Givry Premier Cru Burgundy France 13.0

www.bourgogne-wines.com

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