Dense medium ruby with a sliver edge. Heavy sediment. Big rambly nose of dusty rose, maple sugar and pine pitch over bright pomegranate fruit with a heavy influence on the seeds. Ripe and roiling in old-world funk, a bright flowery over-rides any tendencies for pruney. Heady and concentrated, filling every crevice with its muddy brilliance.
I love Carignane. Always have, always will. I love the bright flowery abilities and fresh fruit alongside what often can be fairly serious structure. It is kinda like Petite Sirah–often viewed (and made in a style that is) a dark dense robust tannic syrup–in the more collective interpretations, a lovely fruity concoction. THis is one of those interpretations.
In the mouth, extreme mineral and acid bite early, creating and almost-spritz notion on the edges of the tongue. Concentrated boysenberry and an alcoholic-tinged strawberry dump loads on everything, pulling in that quintessential ‘green-wine’ texture briefly before unloading everything in a wash of coffee-grounds and citrus. The ‘natural wine’ or ‘raw wine’ influences of this brand are apparent in the late-middle and finish, where all the yummy things in this grape nobody has fucked with come screaming out.
This is a wine unthrottled, running full-bore in any direction it wants and the result is surprisingly focused.
2015 DONKEY & GOAT Carignane Testa Mendocino North Coast 12.7