Paso Done Right

Black impenetrable garnet, some sediment, staining, but not bricking. A little funky nose–a little musty initially, maybe a touch of brett–something I find beautiful and is rare as hen’s teeth in Paso Robles. It gives such a beautiful, realistic, mortal patina to a wine, although I am sure Daniel would thumb-wrestle me to the death for suggesting one of his wines was bretty. Let it go–it’s gorgeous. Spice and fruit blossoms in the nose, alongside a nice strain of eucalyptus and petrichor mottled into wet chalk. And all through, leather and cigar box tertiary shines, but so fresh and clean–NOWHERE is there a sign of age–NOWHERE is there serious signs of age, any oxidation, any tiredness.

This wine is NOT a lot of things. It is not Napa cab. It is not Santa Barbara Syrah. It is not North Coast Syrah. It is not Bordeaux. It is not Sonoma Cab or a Rhone. It is just a great Paso Robles wine–of which there are many–smooth and polished, well-fruited, spicy and alive–with decent tannins. This is the Daou before Cab Collective, before the tasting room, probably before RO, MF and MO. I’m going to guess 14-0 because I have a hard time believing Daou would make OR label something lower than that, but it honestly feels like a 13-5 wine.

In the mouth, bright, brilliant fruit. Toasted blackberry, gobs of cassis, super-ripe yellow peach and a more significant portion of tobacco and leather than in the nose. The bite of tannin–powdery and sublime after these years–makes itself known even as you are still processing the sweet fruit. This wine has considerable acid, and I don’t think the pH was high. Finish is your classic battle of rich fruit and still-ample structure see-sawing off into the sunset.

This wine is not going anywhere. I’m glad I have more. These are Paso Robles GEMS.

2007 DAOU VINEYARDS ‘Celestus’ SY/Cab/PV 60/35/5 Paso Robles 13.7

www.daouvineyards.com

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