Just Like Heaven

Light transparent ruby with thin pink edges. Root beer and clove come cascading out of the glass, crazy floral, rich mascarpone and unctuous Cinnamon Toast Crunch. A little greasy rain-slicker is the only nod in ANY sort of an earth/funky direction, everything else is clean, rich dessert and a shining streak of hard rock and bright ash. A touch of green stemmy drifts in late-breathe, grounding the whole bouquet.

This is such a funny variety. I spent probably the first half of my wine-drinking *career* avoiding Sangiovese, because I hated Chianti–in all three forms. I purposefully ignored domestic Sangio because of my bad–and often expensive–experiences with The Rooster. That all changed one day long ago when I was in a restaurant and ordered a Daniel Gehrs Sangiovese from Santa Barbara. It was full, rich, round, CLEAN, focused and COMPLETELY unlike anything I had had. Now I jump at the chance to try as many as I can. I still avoid Chianti, but I love IGT Sangiovese and there are a handful of California beauties. This is one of them.

In the mouth, a lean, clean fightin machine, cautiously displaying only as much ripe fruit as you can handle at a time, dealing it out alongside gritty tannin and sour-cherry youthful grippiness. There’s SO much in there though. So much of ALL THREE! Despite all the gushy plushness of the nose, the mouthfeel is super-model thin, lithely strutting its lean curves in jaw-dropping fashion. So clean and beautiful, so effortlessly DRINKABLE, this is NOT the over-ripe distillation version of Sangiovese, but neither is it the watery, soda-pop version. This is the best of BOTH worlds.

This bottle sets the bar extremely high on California Sangiovese, and the best I can recall. With only 5 barrels though, a lot of wine-people who NEED to try this benchmark Sangiovese will miss out. Don’t be one of those people.

2015 REEVE WINES Sangiovese Chalk Hill Sonoma County California 14.4

www.reevewines.com

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