Completely opaque ruby, ridiculously staining. A touch of floral precedes the biggest fattest ripest, most ponderous heavy nose imaginable, tinged on all sides by wet leather, tertiary, and spice. The days of cedar box are long over for this wine–or never were–and now it is more cypress or Southern pitch-pine in its woodiness and earthy mint. This thing will literally clog your nose. Huge amounts of air sprint the spice far to the forefront, deleting the pretty floral and bringing the ripeness down to rusty-nail and glycerine.
I can remember the first time I tasted Mazzacco. Well, the first and second times. The first time was a friend pulling a rather old Zinfandel out of his cellar and finding it incredible. Soon after, I was in Healdsburg tasting at RIDGE/Lytton Springs and decided to wander in next door. This was in the late 80’s or early 90’s at the height of my Zin fanboi-dom. It was obvious then–and now–Mazzacco doesn’t mess around with wimpy wines.
In the mouth, dark fruit–concentrated and brooding–convinces you there is nothing bright or fresh about this wine, but then it starts dancing around the mouth, playing various nuances off various points and suddenly you realize there is just about AS MUCH life and vitality packed into this wine as is possible for something this concentrated and ripe. Spicy and shrill, alcohol not playing a *big* part, so I am going to guess it is capped at 14-5. Chewingly dense and no, I mean LITERALLY you have to CHEW through this wine, but all the pretty–no, no, no, “pretty” is the wrong word. This wine is pretty, but using it will send the wrong message. Rubenesque. Robust. My grandfather would probably say “healthy”.
It’s got great curves and lithe sexiness, it’s just HUGE!!! And after tasting a hundred or so Pinots in the past 48 hours, it is a bit of a shock to the system–most of the reason I opened it! Kinda sick of pinot right now. Did I just SAY that?!?!? Big concentrated dried-fruit entry; Clean spicy crazy-concentrated fruit middle; Wrackingly dry finish still so tannic, it makes me both happy and worried I still have a few of these left. Where is it going?
2009 MAZZACCO Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County 14.5