Oregon Cush

Beautiful clear ruby depth, bringing a nose mired in gamey funk, sharp cola and peaty vanilla, pure, fruity and clean to a fault, and yet so inter-woven with all the good things magically PINOT–yes, all the things Pinot-haters HATE. A veritable WALL of papaya and banana fruit cascades down a smooth concrete wall, splashing and dashing dense cinnamon and nutmeg reduction.

I hear frequent conversations on a dislike for Oregon Pinots, and I am guilty of uttering such things as well. Whenever these opinions come up–like ALL wine opinions–they are met with scorn or agreement. I decidedly do NOT scorn those who are still where I was a decade back–lashing around after experiment after experiment (often not cheap) of thin, weird wines. I know the people reading this are divided about 50/50 “That is the biggest bullshit I ever did done read.” and “Oh man, preach, brother.” I’ve just found–either my palate is changing or Oregon Pinots are changing–they are getting more elegant with each passing year.

This is a lush, full-bodied pinot, as obvious from the color. But it is not slutty in the mouth. Decidedly different than California Pinot of this pedigree and concentration: where the Southern climes would take all the lushness of the nose and translate it into fat black cherry, here the nose meets a shrill awakening on the palate of pie cherry and green bitter melon. Still, all that beautiful oak and decadence flows through on the nose, but this one’s way smarter in the mouth, tinged with acid and Burgundian edginess, while managing to capture those of us who have cut our teeth on California warmth.

2016 HUETT ‘The Gold Lot’ Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Oregon 13.5

www.huettcellars.com

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