Garnach-ISTA

Medium blue ruby with a wide thinning pink edge. Rosy sarsaparilla and clove front a warmer baby-skin with perhaps just a touch of powder. The floral is on full-blast here, violet and lily soaked in root beer and hard candy. A wisp of dishwater and Ben-Gay float the whole thing lovely and nose-filling, a GORGEOUS-smelling wine, alive and raw, fresh and beautiful but not cloyingly un-elegant.

In the mouth–hold on, I just wanna smell it some more–OK: delightfully biting right at the get-go. The spice and pepper kick in IMMEDIATELY, letting the sharp fruit have a couple moments’ limelight over the middle before rasping things back up in a shockingly dry, tannic, slightly-hot finish which clamors on and on.

A Grenache to age? This grape is such a strange bird, and there are so many versions of it in California–and the world. Here we have yet another one. Beautiful and round and rosy and then… something happens, tannins happen–not some shallow WC green attempt at structure, but a dense, French-style young wine tannin. And I am not feeling this to be particularly low on alcohol. Whatever it is, it works. Wonderfully.

2015 C. R. GRAYBEHL WINE CO. Grenache Mathis Vineyards Sonoma Valley Sonoma 14.6

www.grenachista.com

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