Not Your Mom’s Viognier

Aqua-tinged gold, with a slight haze. Big buttery nose, but qualified with so much fun stuff. Savory blueberry, roasted corn and Parmesan, garden-hose water and a funky post-sex simplistic *natural wine* sort of petrichor which in past generations of wine-trends would smack of amateur, but by today’s standards is refreshing and packed with life.

I don’t often–make that EVER–find a wine and review it the same day. But today is different. I fell quite in love with this wine from the first sniff. You KNEW it was going to be something different. This is not expensive Condrieu, this is not the reductive Santa Barbara versions which taste like 1990’s Chardonnay cougar-juice, this is bright fresh lively white wine. Do you remember when they shoved Viognier down our throats in the late 80’s and 90’s as “The red wine lover’s white wine”? Yeah, I’d like to forget those days too.

In the mouth, beautiful ripe melon and blood orange with a egg-fried-in-butter sort of base-line fluidity that flirts with wet dog for a split second before razor shards of acidic glass come alive and pierce all corners of the mouth. Black walnut and herb tea apprise a pepper glow that will leave you wiping your gums and smacking your lips as the almond, pear, and leather core take eons to dissipate in the finish.

There’s a lot of people who won’t like this wine. It definitely teeters somewhere between edgy-weird and edgy-brilliant, and I love it. It is bottled for you on-demand at the winery–in your container or theirs–and this fact contributes to the freshness of this reporting. I might just take a 5-gallon bucket up there tomorrow for them to fill.

2017 LEFONDUSAC Viognier Paso Robles 13.5

www.lefondusac.com

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