Mad Hattery

Medium ruby headed ever-so-slightly into garnet with an abrupt edge. Candied yule log and dog-park initial settles down to clean-straw bedding and wet stream-bed, dense with overhanging early-summer growth beginning to dry. The nose depreciates to near-nothing after a little time in the glass, which is somewhat refreshing for a CA Pinot–most of which churn out miles and miles of rich lush fruit and root-beer for hours. This one goes all lean and skulky–but never green. A little graphite and sheet-metal round out delicate woodsy nuances.

Quickly emerging as one of the leaders in the *plays-with-many-pinot-vineyards* game, Joshua Klapper and Alex Kautz makes these locations shine, but doesn’t try to wring too much out of them. Sure, you can probably sell more 14-5 candy to the tourists, but that’s like shooting fish in a bucket. Had a nice chat with both of them yesterday on the 4th of July and he made me a hot dog with perfect knurling. So I couldn’t wait to pop into the wine. Is this the lowest-proof Pinot Timbre bottles? I dunno, but I’m guessing it at 13-5.

In the mouth, also very subdued. Clean, light and bright. Thin, transparent entry turns steamy apricot and briar with a bit of peppery heat sliding down a rich floral dessert trail in the finish toward definite tannin. It’s sweet. It’s candied. It’s bitter. It’s Pinot you definitely can’t merely swirl-sniff-taste-spit and make an opinion about.

A beautiful Pinot Noir–but a quite different one. They’re ALL different, right? The GOOD ones are. It has these action-packed moments of sublime concentration sandwiched between episodes of fruitless and meager. Highly recommended–a BEAUTIFUL wine–appreciating Pinot in ALL its facets is a part of wine life. I can already hear people: “It doesn’t sound very good.” And I will tell you again–as I have hundreds of times, if your mind isn’t open to all the things Pinot can present, DON’T read my Pinot reviews. Go drink Belle Glos and pat yourself on the back.

2015 TIMBRE WINERY Pinot Noir ‘High Hat’ Sebastiano Santa Rita Hills 13.6

timbrewinery.com

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