1-2 Boom-Boom

Beautiful goldenrod, with a creamy nose of nectarine and white peach, dusky and dense layered with wet newsprint and a heady pie-spice. I have several of these left in the cellar and probably need to drink them. Fruit is going a little flabby, but still not one-dimensional, with nutty Chardonnay tertiary pulling the freshness out of the nose and early palate and everything headed into complex. Buttermilk acid in the mouth, still fabulous to drink but I feel headed downhill from what is expected in a petit. Minerality still on 11, combining seamlessly with all that is fruity butter, neutral oak and a white-hot acid going forever and ever in the finish. When you run into Larouche–you buy it, even if it is *merely* petit. Clean and delightful, and I feel petit is one of the finest examples of the variety commonly available in the United States.

Medium ruby with pink edges followed by a fat band of clear. Tomato-plant and dark cherry vie with rusty rose-petal and over-ripe lily for a full, round nose which shocked every Cab-Franc fan at the table. So light and bright, while still concentrated intensely in ways only Chinon manifests. Full and rich on the palate–it wouldn’t surprise me if this were North of 13-oh. In classic Chinon fashion, fruit immediately takes a backseat in the mouth to raspy acid and tannin, giving a teeth-wiping exercise to locating fruit. Oh but it is there. Even at 4, there is no tertiary, only massive structure–of a Loire definition of structure, not Bordeaux by any means–killing everything softly in its slightly-smoky underhanded way. Green and vibrant, another Kermit Lynch piece of perfection–although running austere, in this case.

2011 DOMAINE LAROCHE Chardonnay Petit Chablis France 12.0
2014 CHARLES JOGUET Cabernet Franc Les Varennes Chinon Loire France 13.0

larochewines.com
kermitlynch.com/charles-joguet

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